28 July 2006

homicide seattle style

after a few lowkey days in montana (and another delayed flight) i touched down at good ole seatac today for a 3-wk stint before heading back to chicago and prepping for my 'autumn in asia' super tour. the main reason why im back is to host my friend from seoul, since this is the place im best able to provide a snapshot of american life.

like so much of asia and europa, korea is a land without guns. so what does my lil ambassador see on his first day in gods country (in addition to flying fish at pike place market)? barricaded streets and police choppers downtown thanks to a multiple shooting at the jewish federation. so far ive heard there are 6 casualties with possibly one death. all made more eerie by the anti-israeli bombing of lebanon performance art happening simultaneously at westlake center. it kinda felt like the world was coming to an end.

its been an especially violent year for a town whose annual homicide tallies are dwarfed by other us cities. preliminary fbi crime stats claim 25 murders in seattle last year. compare this to 195 in dc and 136 in memphis, cities of comparable size (nyc led the nation with 539 homicides in 2005). as of our publishing date, there have been 18 hits this year, which doesnt include the '9 dead in 9 days' homicide spree outside city limits just last month. despite low murder rates, seattle can boast two of the nations top three serial killers: gary 'green river killer' ridgway tops the charts with 48 admitted homicides and ted 'i like brunettes' bundy with 30 confessed murders. perhaps murder may soon accompany two other unfortunate consequences of living at the 47th parallel: high incidents of depression and an inexplicable preponderance of multiple sclerosis.

27 July 2006

big sky country

there was a time when minimal flight/hotel/taxi disruptions awoke super cranky pants. for no apparent reason, this has mostly passed. its prolly due to my curious (problematic?) relationship with my laptop and simcity.

whatever the reason, the us airline industry provides ample opportunities to test ones patience. cases in point were my 3 flights to and from chicago and bozeman, mt. my flight to seattle (i waved at bozeman as we flew over it) was delayed .5, 1, then 2 hrs because of a dead gas tank. we removed 30 people and made our way. yikes. i considered taking them up on their free trip if you leave tomorrow offer (gate c25 passenger banter focused on people who make a habit of deliberately booking on oversold flights to rack up free travel), but i wasnt in the mood. but wouldnt ya know my montana connection was also late so it wasnt until just after midnight (and two landing attempts) that i touched down in big sky country.

gallatin airfield doesnt have a big terrorist draw or serve a major metro area, so i stepped off the plane onto the tarmac third world-style and i met my dear oldest pal karin seconds later. she had moved to bozeman after terminated pastry chef and midwife career paths led her to a science degree from msu. driving towards her homestead at high speeds along a dark paved road i was reminded that ive become a city boy.

used to the ubiquitous light pollution of urban streets, i almost forgot the reckless sensation of driving fast on a dark road. it was the first of many reminders over the next few days of what has become (but wasnt always) foreign to me, like a house full of happy dogs and tumbleweed-style tufts of dog hair spinning over wood floors, sleeping outside under brilliant stars, flushing pheasants from tall grass, and feeling the kickback from shooting a shotgun. they are all reminders of a comfort with rural life and culture that has faded, but that i want to keep. im grateful to have a wide range of experiences that afford me comfort in most environs... but they need some periodic maintenance.

given that my life these days favors the urban jungle, montana was a wonderful respite, highlighted by shots of whiskey in a cowboy bar adorned with abandoned bras, a few hours in the field eating wild raspberries, and watching my homegirl scientist at work. all in all, id say i enjoyed gorgeous sights and company.

26 July 2006

we aint no massachusetts

'as mankind becomes more liberal, they will be more apt to allow that all those who conduct themselves as worthy members of the community are equally entitled to the protections of civil government. i hope ever to see america among the foremost nations of justice and liberality.' -georgie washington, 1790

im pretty sure he was talking about homos. that said, the supreme court of the state named in his honor announced today that washingtons 'defense of marriage act (doma)' does not discriminate against homos. its weird that the majority (5-4) of our states most esteemed legal scholars attribute their ruling to the irrelevant (but familiar) arguments that procreation is the primary purpose of marriage. using that logic, i think washington should also prohibit the old and sterile from marrying, but homos who adopt or knocked-up lesbians should be able to get hitched. as a proponent for arbitrary absurdity whenever possible, such a policy appeals to me.

20 July 2006

asian travel bonanza

good lawd ive done it! taken advantage of retirement and cathay pacifics 'all asia pass' promotion to book a 3-month asian excursion to commence on 9-11. for about $1800 (includes all taxes, fees, etc) my itinerary is as follows:

11-19 sept: kuala lumpur
19-24 sept: taipei
24-28 sept: singapore
28 sept-7 oct: ho chi minh city
8-15 oct: bali
15-20 oct: hong kong
20-27 oct: karachi
27 oct-6 nov: bangkok
6-27 nov: seoul

who knows, i might even hop on over to kampuchea and macau. time to do lots of reading, get visas in order and figure out how not to freak out during those especially lonely, exhausting and scary parts inherent to international travel.

also time to hustle to make some new friends to ensure cheap places to stay and local guides. any takers?

05 July 2006

pants and chitown are special

despite confusion from friends curious why i chose chicago, im really loving it here. im a sucker for inspired architecture and public art, which abounds here in the city of broad shoulders. i wonder if these impressive public works were created in part to soothe the chip on said shoulders.

sure, the 'l' into the city takes too long and the weather seems either too hot n muggy or bitterly cold, but who has ever heard of 12-hour parking meters (25 cents for an hour!), real live fireflies (!) and miles upon miles of beautiful lakefront beaches (am i on south beach or ipanema? no, its chicago!)?!

one of my favorite spots so far is the recently unveiled millennium park. the design for the frank gehry-designed pritzker pavilion is a lil played out, but theres an indulgently large flower garden and a wonderful interactive water sculpture designed by spanish artist jaume plensa. the parks website does a better job of describing it than i would, so:


the fountain consists of two 50-foot glass block towers at each end of a shallow reflecting pool. the towers project video images from a broad social spectrum of chicago citizens, a reference to the traditional use of gargoyles in fountains, where faces of mythological beings were sculpted with open mouths to allow water, a symbol of life, to flow out. plensa adapted this practice by having faces of chicago citizens projected on l.e.d. screens and having water flow through a water outlet in the screen to give the illusion of water spouting from their mouths. the collection of faces, plensa's tribute to chicagoans, was taken from a cross-section of 1,000 residents.

these twin towers of video and water were refreshingly playful, optimistic and inter-generational. when i was there, the screens reflected an elderly black man and asian woman looking at each other, almost flirtatiously, while young children squealed in the wet pools beneath them. the best part, however, was when both of them pursed their lips and jets of water spewed forth to everyones surprise. such clever and interactive art makes me happy.

being in new environs makes what was typical day-to-day seattle behavior suddenly remarkable. living here is helping me recognize my own personal culture- how aspects of my behavior (eg minimizing waste, enjoying solitude, etc) are reflections of my previous experiences and communities rather than universal status quo. conversely, there are aspects of my identity that seem better suited here than there. both reactions are comforting- what seemed typical now seems rather unique, and much of what felt awkward is now affirmed. i guess this self-revelatory and flattering aspect of travel is part of what makes it so appealing. epiphany this is not, but good food for my auto pilot-prone thought.